So to start off, this was a magazine series, being quite retro . Since it had smoke in it, yes luckily the girl is a heavy smoker, I had to ensure a hefty side or side back light. At the same time I didn’t want to kill the volume on here face and really needed the eyes ( beauty series).
The previous shots were done with more or less the same lights yet quite differently placed.
Since the original set up was for less contrast you can see that here in the eyes where the lights were.
The main light is my Octa close , high and feathered for short light. It is above her head pointing down, pointing towards the camera. There is likely a black cardboard strip on the edge closest to her to stop her from being overexposed and to avoid spill onto the background.
There is a normal bowl on a lamp pointed into the wall behind me the camera which is the easiest way to make a fill without cross shadows. Usually at around the same height as the main light, again don’t kill volume with reflectors too low.
There is a silver card below in this example but removed for the smoke picture.
There is an all important black card cutting the light to her cheek on the bright side.
I would have preferred the light to be higher but it can’t for her eyes. I could have had her leaning forward which then would have left the neck in shade, yet the eyes the same!
Here is the original set up, then a close up of the second set up.